Seat design, weight rating key to picking float tube

Last week, I suggested that float tubes are a viable and relatively inexpensive choice for anglers in the market for a boat alternative. While they have their limitations, float tubes provide options that shoreline anglers don’t have. Most notably they allow anglers to access water they couldn’t reach otherwise, but they also permit the angler to use a wider variety of baits and fishing techniques.

A float tube basically is an inflatable fishing platform that provides mobility to the angler. The earliest models were nothing more than truck inner tubes with seats made from nylon or some other fabric. An angler sits in this seat, suspended within the center of the tube with his legs below the water line. With fins attached to his feet, the angler kicks to provide the propulsion needed to move or turn the float tube.

While the basic “round tube” design still is in use, float tubes have evolved and provide anglers with a variety of options that use air bladders rather than a round tube. Air bladders can be formed into various shapes that make float tubes more maneuverable, quicker and easier to access than the round tube design.

The most common designs available today come in “U,” “V” or “H” shapes that are open across the back and permit the angler to pull the tube seat to him rather than having to thread his fin-clad feet through a round tube.

In addition to ease of access, each of these designs provides the angler with a longer platform that is complete with a back rest and onboard equipment storage. Aftermarket equipment manufacturers even have designed things such as rod-holders and fish-finders for use exclusively on these float tubes.

When considering a float tube purchase, I recommend that you pay careful attention to the seat design and placement. My friend and I each have V-shaped tubes, but I learned quickly that he can cover more water than I can. The reason is simple: When I sit in my tube, at least half of my body is suspended below the water’s surface. This creates drag or resistance, which then requires more energy to move my tube.

My friend’s tube, on the other hand, is designed so he sits above the water line. The only parts of his body extending below the tube are his lower legs and feet. The result is less resistance, which makes each of his kicks more efficient than mine. You can guess what my next tube purchase is going to be.

One of the problems with float tube shopping is you generally can’t test-drive the product before you buy it. However, if you have friends with float tubes, you might ask to give theirs a try before you buy. Online reviews can give you a good overview of product quality, but when it comes to particular models, keep in mind that each of us is different. What I prefer in a float tube design might not necessarily work for you.

Something else to keep in mind is the weight rating for the tube you are considering. If you weigh more than 250 pounds, you don’t want a tube rated for 225 pounds. In addition to the float tube, you will need chest-waders, wading boots, fins and a life jacket.

Freelance writer Doug Nielsen is a conservation educator for the Nevada Department of Wildlife. His “In the Outdoors” column, published Thursday in the Las Vegas Review-Journal, is not affiliated with or endorsed by the NDOW. Any opinions he states in his column are his own. He can be reached at intheoutdoorslv@gmail.com.