Years of experience in the kitchen leads to Chavelo’s
Las Vegans have been eating Jose Rodriguez’ deft renditions of Mexican-American food for years, without even knowing it. But now Rodriguez has a place of his own, and with the ante raised, he’s exercising his creativity, introducing new combinations and adding considerable flair to familiar ones.
Rodriguez opened Chavelo’s Mexican Bar &Grill in January after years at the old Zapata’s at Valley View Boulevard and West Sahara Avenue and various renditions of Casa Mercado’s. He started training at age 10 with his mother in Mexico, and by 1986, at age 17, he’d launched his professional career in Las Vegas.
That’s a lot of years to observe what customers like and hone a polished repertoire, but Rodriguez clearly is open to innovation as well.
A case in point is his Vampiros ($14.95), a Sonoran creation gradually making its way across the United States. It starts with corn tortillas grilled until they’re dried, rendering them less apt to crumble than tostadas, and with slightly curled edges just right for holding fillings. Chavelo’s piles Monterey cheese and refried beans onto the bottom layer and tops the upper one with your choice of meat, including deeply seasoned carne asada, pollo asada and carnitas.
Rodriguez’ flair was evident in a starter of Taquitos Dorados ($10.95), with carne asada, chorizo, shrimp or chicken.
What distinguished these was the succulent filling, in which the meat, cheese and stir-fried pico de gallo — which totally changed the nature of the salsa, deepening and mellowing the flavor — had been encased in rolled tortillas and fried until crisp. As with the Vampiros, they were topped with a mound of freshly made guacamole and sour cream, showered with crumbles of queso fresco.
Carnitas have become commonplace in Las Vegas Mexican restaurants, though not many use them to fill enchiladas ($13.95). Soft tortillas enveloped tender braised pork covered by a complementary blanket of salsa verde and cheese. The “fresh garlic oranges” promised on the menu weren’t in evidence, but the hint of citrus in the meat balanced the richness.
All of these dishes showcased the more rustic aspects of Mexican cuisine, in which most of the flavor is derived from natural products, heightened by grilling and seasoning.
Quite different was the Pollo Chipotle en Salsa De Crema ($16.95), a dish owing much to European tradition, in which two pounded chicken breast halves had been sauteed in butter with onions and a generous amount of garlic, then bathed in a rich sauce in which spicy-smoky chipotle was tamed by cream.
Included with the entrees were tomato-and-chile- seasoned rice and refried beans topped with melted cheese. They were served with an exceptional version of sopa de fideo, piping hot and flush with tomato flavor and vermicelli pieces.
Thin salsa served before dinner had the kick of chiles and fresh notes of cilantro and the accomp- anying bean dip provided contrast.
When so many places are serving warm, thin tortilla chips, it was unfortunate that Chavelo’s tri-colored chips were cold and thick.
Chavelo’s location on Sunset Road in Henderson has been many things over the years, starting with a Boston Market and rotating through numerous concepts. While none of those lasted, Rodriguez’ creativity and dedication to quality just might break the streak.
Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella onTwitter.
Chavelo’s Mexican Bar & Grill, 2021 W. Sunset Road, Henderson; 702-558-3366 or chavelosrestaurant.com
The essence: Quality born of years of experience gets a boost from chef’s creativity.
