Stuart Cellars Cabernet Franc

Wine: Stuart Cellars Cabernet Franc

Grapes: Cabernet franc (80 percent), merlot (20 percent)

Region: Temecula Valley, Calif.

Vintage: 2006

Price: $9.99

In the glass: Stuart Cellars Cabernet Franc is a deep garnet-red color with a dense, opaque core going out into a fine, slightly tinged rim definition with medium-high painted viscosity.

On the nose: There is a tremendous olfactory explosion of berry fruit character with crushed raspberries, cranberries, marionberries and morello cherries, with some underlying notes of spicebox, black peppercorns, tobacco and earthy minerals.

On the palate: This wine hits the tongue with a serious fruit force, dominated by black cherry preserve, forest berries, spiced cranberry, huckleberry sauce, aniseed and blackened steak. The midpalate is very balanced, and while the tannins are powerful, they are also harmonious in mingling with the fruit, yet showing some rustic pepper character. The finish is excellent, with some raspberry jam and Good Earth Tea, and lingers for at least 25 seconds. Stuart Cellars Cabernet Franc is a thoroughly well-made wine.

Odds and ends: I have a soft spot for wines made from cabernet franc, especially if they come from the Saint Emilion or Pomerol areas of Bordeaux, France. This one is from a little-known appellation in California, known as Temecula Valley, not far from Los Angeles, but winemakers can definitely grow cabernet franc there, where I bet it ripens really well compared with so many other places. Cabernet franc is one of the classic Bordeaux varieties, but it is a hard grape to work with, and while most of the top chateaux in Bordeaux use it to blend into their so-called "Grand Vin," it never dominates, except for two super properties where it is the standard: Chateau Cheval Blanc and Vieux Chateau Certan. Stuart Cellars has done a great job of this estate bottled and unfiltered reserve and it is now reaching a plateau of maturity that makes it instantly drinkable. Try it with grilled filet accompanied by new potatoes and bearnaise sauce and you should be in for a super summer dinner. Drink it now through 2015.

Gil Lempert-Schwarz’s wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89106-0749, or email him at gil@winevegas.com.