Mark West California Pinot Noir

Wine: Mark West California Pinot Noir.

Grape: pinot noir

Region: California

Vintage: 2009

Price: $8.99

In the glass: Mark West Pinot Noir is a deep blood-ruby red color with a semi-opaque core going out into a purplish-red to light violet rim definition and high viscosity.

On the nose: There is immediate crushed, concentrated red and black berry fruit, subtle oak references, sweetish vanilla extract, raspberry coulisse, minerals, licorice root and some underlying red floral characteristics.

On the palate: The wine has very forward mixed red and black fruits, all quite concentrated and sweet, with red plums, crushed red berry extract, then phenolics that give the wine a nice backbone in combination with the soft supple tannins. The midpalate is richly balanced and nuanced, and the subtle structure is well-defined through the long, lingering finish. It is an excellent example of California pinot noir, made in a more modern style that has evolved during the past five years.

Odds and ends: Bob and Joan Ellis, who were early California pinot noir advocates, planted chardonnay and pinot noir on this land near Mark West Creek back in the 1970s, recognizing that they had a microclimate here not unlike that of Burgundy, France. In 1990, Mark West became the first winery to be certified organic by the California Certified Organic Farmers. Then in 2001, the whole winery operation was bought by Purple Wine Co. and today, one of every 10 pinot noir bottles bought in the United States is a Mark West pinot! I do not suppose they are concerned with the organic farming aspect any longer, but they still craft a tasty California pinot, whose only drawback is that it is slowly succumbing to the trend of imitating syrahs, which is not necessarily a plus. Either way, the price is great, so try it with a slice of meatloaf and mash as I did. Drink it now through 2014.

Gil Lempert-Schwarz’s wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89106-0749, or email him at gil@winevegas.com.