A 1st look inside the new Durango resort steakhouse

In Japan, wagyu cattle are raised on a certain farm in the snows of Hokkaido Island, the cold producing marbling nearly as fine as the veins of a snowflake.

In the Mediterranean, off the Spanish coast, branzino are caught, then swiftly killed and bled and iced, for later dry aging on hooks in temperature-controlled refrigerators, a process that yields better texture, cleaner flavor and less fishiness.

In Chicago, a center of American meat since the Civil War, Nebraska prime rib is aged for 21 days, South Dakota porterhouse for 30 days, Nebraska bone-in ribeye for 45.

These globally sourced products — and many other products uniting history and husbandry — are set to make their menu debut at Nicco’s Prime Cuts & Fresh Fish, the flagship restaurant at the $780 million Durango resort. The Station Casinos property, like Nicco’s, is launching Nov. 20 in southwest Las Vegas. (Reservations open now: durangoresort.com.)

Sourcing is essential at the restaurant, as much a philosophy as a practice.

“That’s our ethos, our culinary direction, our North Star: to get the best ingredients,” said Daniel Ye, executive chef of Durango, who joined with Frankie Gorriceta, executive chef of Nicco’s, to source the menu.

“We want to treat ingredients with respect, to use our collective knowledge and best possible technique and execution to honor the ingredients. We want to coax the best flavors from the ingredients and do that with finesse and honor and respect.”

Wagyu flourishing

Wagyu (American, Australian, Japanese), USDA Prime grade steaks and beef dry aged privately in Chicago for Nicco’s anchor the beef program. An Australian wagyu tomahawk checks in at 32 ounces. A Prime bone-in filet mignon comes out of southern Nebraska. Dry aged? There’s a brawny 36-ounce South Dakota porterhouse, among other options.

Three rare, highly prized and difficult to obtain wagyu selections make up the wagyu flight. Hokkaido Snow Beef, luscious olive beef (from cows finished on olives), and true Kobe beef (approved for sale at Nicco’s by Kobe authorities) are sliced almost sashimi-style, then cooked by staff over almond wood on a tableside grill.

“In July, I was in Japan, and I got to see the cattle, talk to the farmers, touch the dirt, see what their feed is like,” Ye said. “That’s our entry into the market with Kobe. People are looking for that connection to the farm, that connection to the rancher.”

Snow, olive and Kobe wagyu join forces again in a custom grind for the Nicco’s 28 Burger cooked on a plancha, and nestled in a brioche bun with a Thousand Island-style sauce.

“It’s a labor of love,” Ye said of the burger. “We think it’s a pretty perfect patty.”

Comfort food continues (and elevates) with country fried steak, a 16-ounce split-bone wagyu ribeye, juicy and fatty, that’s pounded out, breaded, pan-fried, then draped with a rich coverlet of country gravy.

The benefits of dry aging fish

Surf follows turf at Nicco’s.

For the dry-aged branzino, the restaurant works with a supplier experienced in the Japanese ikejime method of slaughter in which a spike through the brain euthanizes the fish before its blood is drained.

This method reduces stress, which releases chemicals that damage the flesh; prevents blood from seeping into the muscles; firms up the texture of the flesh; and allows the fish to develop more appealing flavor when it’s dry aged (typically 14 to 21 days) under temperature control.

“The act of preserving, especially fish, has been done since the beginning of human time,” Ye said. “Dry aging is a process. We’re conditioning the fish, the muscles relax and all the impurities leach out. “When you rid the flesh of any excess water or liquid, you’re really getting a pure product.”

The branzino is grilled over almond wood, then simply served, with lemon butter. Salmon from the Faroe Islands in the North Atlantic, one of the world’s best salmon fisheries, is also grilled over almond wood. Langoustines to share are prepared tableside in butter spiked with Meyer lemon and smoked paprika.

Ocean options also run to Alaskan king crab, Maine lobster, bluefin tuna, Dover sole and beyond.

“What’s popping?” Ye asked of potential sources of product. “What’s the best of everywhere?”

Inside and out

A seafood market display lies just beyond the travertine-clad entrance to Nicco’s, which seats 250. A presentation kitchen affords views of chefs working at the wood-burning grill and Mibrasa charcoal oven.

Avenue Interior Design of Los Angeles created the decor. Italian burl wood wraps the walls. A selenite crystal bar awaits for sipping craft cocktails like a Ceremonial Julep with spiced plum wine reduction, or a Cloud Nine spritz topped with mountain berry tea.

In the dining room, textured velvet, leather upholstery, architectural lighting, fire elements and vibrant contemporary art convene an opulent mood. A glass-enclosed patio opens with the seasons.

At Nicco’s, the look, like the ingredients, is something to be widely and thoughtfully sourced.

Contact Johnathan L. Wright at jwright@reviewjournal.com. Follow @JLWTaste on Instagram and @ItsJLW on X.