5 is lucky number for those seeking Feast of Seven Fishes

It’s more American than Italian, but in some parts of the country Italian-Americans will eagerly gather to partake of the Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve, and at least five Las Vegas restaurants are carrying on the tradition.

The celebration apparently started with new immigrants to America during the early part of the 20th century, especially in the greater New York City area, who were recalling the Christmas Eve fasts of their homeland. While the symbolism of the “seven” is uncertain, conventional wisdom has it that it relates to the heavy use of the number in Christianity and especially Catholicism — such as days of creation, sacraments and deadly sins.

But the explanation for the emphasis on seafood in the feast is much more clear.

“I didn’t know what it was when I was young,” said Mark LoRusso, executive chef of Costa di Mare at Wynn Las Vegas, who grew up in Stamford, Conn. “But I knew every Christmas Eve we didn’t eat any meat, we ate pasta and fish — white fish like sole, and scallops. And you’re waiting for the Virgin and the birth of Jesus.”

LoRusso launched a Feast of the Seven Fishes menu last year, figuring it fit in nicely with his family-style tasting menu. It was so successful he decided to repeat it, on both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.

“I was getting phone calls, and (messages) on social media: ‘Hey, are you guys doing this?’ ” LoRusso said.

He’s reprising some of the dishes he served last year and swapping in others. Since anchovies are a traditional part of the feast, he’ll use them, along with mozzarella cheese, to stuff zucchini blossoms. Salt cod, also known as baccala, is another standard, and he’s using that in fritters.

“Octopus, which is very traditional,” LoRusso said. “And then we’re doing our stuffed langoustines; there’s usually some kind of baked shrimp or baked clams. We notch it up a little bit.”

Plus three types of pasta, including garganelli with two types of crab, two types of fish, lobster and lobster sauce. Spaghetti with anchovy sauce. Crab risotto.

“And then you get a whole fish,” he said. For dessert, three types of cannoli, evoking another tradition. It’s $150. wynnlasvegas.com

At Siena Italian Deli & Trattoria at 9500 W. Sahara Ave., owner and executive chef Giancarlo Bomparola says the feast brings to mind great memories of the Christmas Eve feasts of his childhood in Milan, Italy. He’s planning a modern take on the celebration, to be served on Christmas Eve only.

Siena will serve seven seafood specials: lobster ravioli, $27.75; Linguine Sciue’ Sciue’ with clams, scallops and lobster, $29.75; Chilean sea bass with lemon-caper sauce, $38.75; Tagliolini Al Fruitti Di Mare, $26.75; baccala sauteed with onions, olives and potatoes, $24.75; branzino with lemon-caper sauce, $34.75; and salmon with sauteed spinach. $27.75.

Traditional dishes such as fried baccala, $17.75; Frito Misto, $22.75; and scungili salad, $18.75, also will be available. sienaitalian.com

At La Strega at 3555 S. Town Center Drive, Christmas Eve guests will be able to choose seven seafood dishes from this list: bay scallops, PEI mussels, New Zealand cockles, swordfish, Rhode Island calamari, Mexican whitefish, monkfish, lump crab and Big Glory Bay salmon, $77. 702-722-2099

Rao’s at Caesars Palace plans seafood specials on Christmas Eve such as ahi crudo, Mediterranean mussels, seafood salad, linguine and clams, lobster fra diavolo, brodette pesce and cod, priced at $24.99 to $42.99. raosrestaurants.com

And Carbone at Aria will offer a special prix-fixe menu of dishes including a whole grilled lobster, King Crab legs, oysters and seafood sausage from 5 to 10 p.m. Christmas Eve and 3 to 9 p.m. Christmas Day. It’s $450. aria.mgmresorts.com or 877-230-2742

Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.