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Old vines produce excellent French wine

June 20, 2007 - 9:00 pm
 

The small, rustic looking Chateau de Lancyre has been in wine production for more than 500 years from the same soil. That is why its wine is so outstanding, having been made entirely from a selection of the oldest vines, hence the moniker “vielles vignes” on the label.

The story is similar to other properties in this poor region of France, where the vineyard was in disarray until the Durand and Valentin families acquired it in 1970 and restored it. The winery now produces complex, internationally styled wines that show incredible quality for a reasonable price.

In addition, the Pic Saint-Loup region is a hotbed for experimentation and is considered the ultrachic appellation of the 21st century.

In any case, this vielles vignes is a great example of why France is a leader in the world of wine and how it can acquire the kind of quality not possible to make in California, and for less than $20. It’s a refined choice in wine and highly recommended.

In the glass, this Chateau de Lancyre is a deeply opaque blackish-red to purple-red color with a deep core going out into a purple-red rim definition and ultrahigh viscosity.

On the nose, there is an immediate explosion of interesting complex meaty crushed black fruit with black cherries, brambleberries, pepper, spice, minty freshness, oak references, creme de cassis, sloe fruit and elderberry juice extract.

In the mouth, there is considerable extraction of crushed black fruits with interesting peppery spice characteristics, herbs de Provence, blackberry juice, toast points, sloe fruit juice, integrated oak references and a great midpalate filled with cherry liqueur and herbs. The finish is awesome and the wine lingers on the palate for a full minute, showing a lovely balanced and complex wine with good structure and tannins that are soft and supple.

This is one of the best-made wines of the region with a consistent and impressive record. Drink it now through 2009 and try it with a buffalo rib-eye like the one they serve at Valentino at The Venetian.

Wine: Chateau de Lancyre Vielles Vignes

Grape: Syrah (65 percent), grenache (35 percent)

Region: Pic Saint-Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc, Southern France

Vintage: 2003

Price: $19.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz’s wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O.Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com

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