New Zealand offers distinctive wine

New Zealand sauvignon blancs are stars of the white wine category both here and in the United Kingdom.

The fresh and lovely wines, predominantly from the Marlborough region, are remarkably different from the classic sauvignon blancs produced in the Loire Valley of France, which is the indigenous home of this grape varietal.

This wine from Wither Hills is unaffected by recent controversy involving the winery. (Winemaker Brent Marris — considered the top guy in his native country — was accused of fabricating samples for a specific wine competition, and he has since resigned from the company.)

This is the first wine I have had a chance to review from the 2006 vintage and it gives us an idea that it was a great year for dry white wines. In fact, almost all important white wine regions, including France, Germany and the United States have produced significant whites in the 2006 vintage.

In the glass, Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc is a faint butter yellow with a star-bright appearance and a clean, clear core with slight streaks of lightish green, going out into a colorless rim definition with fine high viscosity.

On the nose, the classic New Zealand sauvignon blanc characteristics of northern gooseberries, crushed pomelo segments, grapefruit, green mango, lime zest and eau de vie de poire with just a hint of chalky minerals come through.

In the mouth, it has the classic freshness upfront, full of vigor on the palate with an almost spritzy characteristic. There are gooseberries, white currants, stone fruit, zesty pear sparkler, key lime pie, lemon curd and oodles of structure in this delicious and approachable wine. The midpalate is dominated by the searing acidity, but the fruit balances things out nicely with lots of citrus rind and almost creamy grapefruit sorbet. Then there is a lengthy and surprisingly wonderfully balanced finish with lemon drops right at the end.

At less than $10, this is a great wine for summer. Enjoy it slightly chilled to 52 degrees Fahrenheit, and serve by itself or with any kind of fresh shellfish. Drink it now through 2008.

Wine: Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc

Grape: Sauvignon Blanc

Region: Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

Vintage: 2006

Price: $9.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz’s wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.