Citrus can take longer to establish

Q: In your May 19 column, "Pesticide should be last resort in process," you wrote that you have a Meyer’s lemon. I always thought that these trees needed to come indoors and thus were confined to being patio plants.

I live in the western part of the city, which is slightly higher than other parts of the valley. If you think we could keep a citrus alive, I will gladly plant one.

A: I reside in the southern section of the valley and the lemon in our yard has been in place some 14 years. It did not do much until about 5 years ago, but it has become increasingly more productive. It started out as a patio plant in a container, but I took a chance in planting it. I placed it so that it receives the hottest of afternoon sun and as much direct light as possible in the winter. I am certain this has helped it become well established.

In the spring, it is vital to provide ample nutrition. Also be careful to provide ample space. My tree became rather large (8 feet by 4 feet).

I would suggest that you try a Meyer’s, and later you may wish to attempt kumquat and limes. I heard a story from a local recently who had great success with grapefruit here. Perhaps some of our readers could share their success stories.

Q: What are the proper conditions to grow bougainvilleas in this area? I have tried several times and do not seem to succeed. They recover from the winter OK but yield only leaves, no flowers afterward. I know they do not need much water and like full sun.

A: Bougainvilleas are difficult in our climate, as they are quite tender. Even with our harsh winters you may achieve some success. Provide ample nutrition and irrigation in the spring as the leaves begin to emerge and continue until the temperatures start to climb into the 90s. This pushes new foliage where the flowers (actually bracts) will be produced during the summer.

Gradually, irrigate less frequently entering into the summer months and withhold fertilizers high in nitrogen. The flowering should begin as the temperatures rise. Some plants respond well to tough love. Barbara Karst and San Diego Red are good varieties to try, as they are two of the hardiest.

Q: Please tell me of an effective way of getting rid of rabbits. They are all over, very bold and destroy expensive, established bushes and other plants. They even get into potted plants and eat the roots. I live in the extreme southern end of the valley, and the place is plagued with hundreds of rabbits.

A: Rabbits are a serious issue for gardeners. As I am sure you already know, these little varmints can strip a garden or a patio of plant material overnight. The only practical way to prevent damage is exclusion. Even in the largest nurseries, they do everything they can to keep the rabbits out by fencing the perimeters.

Use chicken wire to wrap around tasty mesquite and palo verde trunks to protect the bark. Once the trees become larger, they will be somewhat less attractive. Try placing wire cages (secured with stakes) around vegetable plants and ornamentals. It may appear unsightly, but it is effective.

There are plants that are less desirable (rabbit resistant) and they are listed on the Mountain States Wholesale Nursery Web site www.mswn.com. However, bear in mind that if rabbits are hungry, they will eat almost anything green, even cactus.

There are claims that certain products like Shake-Away (critter-repellent.com), which relies on the scent of predators like coyote, bobcat and fox, may be effective.

You also may want to invest in a good hunting dog. I wish you luck.

Dennis Swartzell is the marketing director for Mountain States Wholesale Nursery. As an ISA board-certified master arborist and a member of the American Society of Consulting Arborists, Swartzell has been helping Southern Nevadans with their gardening questions for more than 20 years. If you have a question about a particular plant, or a general gardening issue, send it to Swartzell at treemender@cox.net.