Built-in fridge requires precise placement

Q: A while back, you wrote about changing the cabinets to accommodate a built-in refrigerator. I was able to buy a used one and am ready to install it. Is it different than a regular refrigerator, that is, one that is not built-in?

A: A built-in refrigerator is a large investment. In fact, you could buy a serviceable used car for the price of a new built-in fridge. They start at 36 inches wide and get larger and more expensive from there. These refrigerators are only 24 inches deep (the depth of the surrounding cabinets), so if you are looking to gain a lot of extra storage by getting one the same width as your standard one, you might want to think again.

Due to the expense, you typically don’t see a built-in fridge in an average home. Not only is it costly, but so is the price of the new cabinets you will have to buy to accommodate it. It’s a major purchase, but it will attract major attention.

What makes a built-in so distinctive is its height. At 84 inches tall, the fridge will certainly stand out. At the same time, its height makes it a little dangerous. These refrigerators are very top heavy, as all of the components are located at the top behind a movable panel. The danger is that it can easily tip forward if it is not secured to the wall or the cabinetry.

So, with the opening in the cabinetry at the correct dimensions, you can get started.

You will need to make sure the electrical outlet is in the proper spot. Each fridge has a specific area where the electrical outlet must be located, so you will need to move it there if it is not there already. The back of the fridge will be very cramped against the wall, but it has an opening that will encircle the outlet. Move the fridge to the opening but don’t push it in just yet.

You need to hook up the ice maker/water line before pushing it into place. The water line connects at the front of the fridge, so you can either run the line to the general area, push the fridge in and connect it, or connect it before you push it in and just be careful not to damage the line as you roll the fridge into place.

You also will need to level the fridge front and back, and you can do all of the leveling at the front of the unit. This is done with a hex wrench and an open-end wrench.

Now is also a good time to make any adjustments for the height of your cabinet opening. You can adjust the typical built-in fridge as much as 1 inch to close any gap in the cabinet’s height.

Since the fridge is so top heavy, it must be secured to keep from falling forward. If you are slipping it into an opening that has cabinets above it, you can secure it to the underside of them and to the sides of the adjacent cabinets.

The fridge does not come with predrilled holes, so you will have to drill the holes through the metal frame and into the cabinet frame. Raise the top panel to give you access to the underside of the frame.

You want to have the fridge moved into its final resting place and then drill four holes spaced evenly into the frame. Then use 1½-inch screws and secure it into place.

You should also place one screw into each adjacent cabinet frame; all of the screws will be hidden once you close the panel.

If you haven’t done so already, connect the water supply and plug the unit in. With the top panel open, you can reach through and plug the fridge into the outlet.

Now is also a good time to make any adjustments to the doors as they can open to only 90 degrees, or to about 130 degrees. This is so the neighboring cabinets won’t interfere or get banged up when the door is opened.

Finally, screw in the decorative toe kick to hide the water connection.

With any luck you can go borrow a cold beverage from your neighbor until your fridge gets cold enough to chill your own.

Michael D. Klimek is a licensed contractor and president of Pro Handyman Corp. Questions may be sent by e-mail to: questions@pro-handyman.com. Or, mail to: P.O. Box 96761, Las Vegas, NV 89193. His Web address is: www.pro-handyman.com.