The Short of It
Similar to plus-size women and big and tall guys, short men face tall obstacles when it comes to clothes. Not only do they have to have their tailor on speed dial, stylish men of smaller statures must also adhere to a few crucial fashion rules to avoid amplifying their horizontal challenges.
Jimmy Au’s in Los Angeles specializes in dressing men under 5-foot-8 and helps celebrities such as Al Pacino, Mark Wahlberg, Danny Bonaduce, Martin Sheen and Michael J. Fox stretch their stature with the right clothes. Here are a few of the fashion fundamentals Jimmy Au’s recommends for short men.
UP, UP AND AWAY
The higher the eye can go on a short man, the better off — and less short — he’ll appear. To keep the attention up north, Jimmy Au’s advises that men select patterns and colors carefully. Substitute horizontal stripes for vertical ones, large patterns for small prints and light colors on top in place of dark, camouflaging tones.
GET SHORTY
Don’t confuse a good fit in the waist for a good fit overall. A pair of shorts can easily turn into a pair of capris if a short guy isn’t careful. Be sure to buy shorts that have enough material to tailor them above the knee. Also, look for styles with trim cuts and understated patterns to lengthen the leg. Solid color shorts will best complement short men.
TRUNK FUNK
Yes, you swim in your trunks but don’t let them drown you. When it comes to trunks: the shorter, the better. They’ll make legs appear longer and allow shorter guys to get out of the pool without exposing their bare assets.
FANCY PANTS
For summer, start off with a lightweight cotton pant or denim. The heavier the fabric, the more weighed down a short guy will appear. Count on a low rise (the distance between the crotch and the waist) of the pant to create an illusion of a longer lower body. Long rises will shorten the torso and throw proportions off. Also, whenever possible choose flat fronts instead of pleats. The former will streamline with a straight, narrow look while the latter will distract the eye and abbreviate.
TOPPING OFF
For shirts, rolled up sleeves and several inches of tucked in fabric only create a “hand-me-down” feel. Concentrate first on securing a slimmer fit; most shirts can be tailored to accommodate shorter torsos and arms. Jimmy Au’s recommends avoiding anything too roomy around the upper body; it just makes guys look out of balance and the skin-on-skin effect around the arms and torso will cause perspiration.
