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HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi’s Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

BOUCHON

Venezia Tower at The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 414-6200

It still seems as incongruous among the Italianate trappings of the Venetian as on the day it opened, but Bouchon has worn very nicely, delivering French-bistro fare that’s as authentic as it gets. Notable were a charcuterie board, the Poulet Roti (roast chicken), Triute aux Amandes (trout almondine) and the silken-sin richness of the Mousse au Chocolate Noir, which requires no translation. (7/31/09)

Overall: A $$$

DONA MARIA TAMALES

910 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 382-6538 (also at 3205 N. Tenaya Way)

Dona Maria Tamales is the real deal; if you don’t believe us, just ask some of the fans gathered for the futbol games on satellite TV. Tamales wrapped in just-dense-enough masa harina are the specialty of the house and the cheese version had a filling that was just firm enough and had just enough peppers, its tender pork counterpart with just a bit of a kick; even the beans and rice are better than we normally encounter. And on a return visit, we’d be sure not to miss the queso fundido con chorizo. (7/14/09)

Overall: B+ $$

I LOVE SUSHI

11041 S. Eastern Ave.; 990-4055

I Love Sushi is one of a growing genre of sushi restaurants that are refining and re-defining the art to be more in keeping with American tastes. To that end there’s a heavy reliance on tuna and salmon, but we’re not complaining. We liked the Joe’s Special, Sex on the Beach, the I Love Sushi Special, the Lisa Hand Roll, the John Homes Roll and the Tornado. And a vanilla mochi for dessert. And there’s teriyaki, teppanyaki and yakisoba, in case sushi’s not your thing. (4/14/09)

Overall: A $$

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