Heidi’s Picks
Heidi’s Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.
BRIO TUSCAN GRILLE
Town Square, 6653 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 914-9145
Brio looks a lot more like a Tuscan manse than an outlet of a restaurant chain based in Columbus, Ohio, but that’s just part of its appeal. It manages to deliver the familiar with a slightly innovative edge, as in the garganelli carbonara, with not only the customary bacon and Parmesan but also grilled chicken and fresh spinach leaves; bruschetta Caprese that blends the best of both dishes; a somewhat-too-subtle artichoke-and-herb-crusted pork chop; a trio of creme brulees; and a lovely soup of the day, creme of morel. (1/29/10)
Overall: A- $$
HAVANA GRILL
8878 S. Eastern Ave.; 932-9310
If you like Cuban food you’re no doubt familiar with the Florida Cafe, and this younger sister also showcases the cuisine at its best. We liked it all, which included tostones — twice-cooked green plantain — topped with Ropa Vieja, Picadillo and shrimp (no, not together), Lechon Asado, Vaca Frita, the stacked flan and tres leches dessert tower called Riquimbin — even good fresh Cuban bread, buttered and warmed in a press. (3/27/09)
Overall: A- $$
MARSSA
Loew’s Lake Las Vegas, 101 Montelago Blvd., Henderson; 567-6125
Marssa’s happy hour is a little unusual in that it’s only an hour, fairly late as these things go — 6 to 7 p.m.– and Tuesday through Saturdays, instead of just weekdays. We think that’s a bid to get people to come in and try the place, and it works, because Marssa puts on an awfully good face during happy hour. We were particularly enamored of the crunchy salmon roll, the beef kushiage and the lumpia, and the sake portion that was very generous at happy-hour prices. (10/2/09)
Overall: A- $$
