Food critics ‘going public’ becoming a trend
So, you may have noticed that there appears to be a nationwide trend of food critics “going public” and allowing — even encouraging — photos of themselves to be published. If you have, you may have wondered if I’m going to follow suit.
In a word: No. Not gonna happen.
I am, as far as I know, the only anonymous restaurant critic in Las Vegas and apparently one of a dying breed across the country. In this era of instant “celebrities,” I could easily become one, showing up at parties, copping free meals on a daily basis, giving my opinion on some TV show or another.
But here’s the thing: I’m in this to be a journalist, not a celebrity, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. The role of a critic is to relate the experience readers are likely to have. That’s pretty hard to do if everybody in the restaurant knows who you are, so you get the best table with the best server, the chef sends out dish after comped dish and everybody’s laboring to make a big impression. I’m aware that what I write could affect a restaurant’s chance at success and I take that responsibility very seriously, but I’m also aware that my first responsibility is to you, dear reader, followed by the management of this newspaper — which, I’m happy to say, agrees with my philosophy.
The pro-photo camp’s rationale is that, in this day when we all seem to be so obsessed with showing ourselves and our lives on Facebook, of reveling in the selfie, nobody is truly anonymous. Not true.
I’ve had this gig for about 15 years here in Las Vegas, and before that for nearly 20 years, off and on, in Florida. In all that time, I’ve never allowed a photo of myself to be made public. Family and friends know I’m obsessed; if somebody’s taking shots at a party, I’m out of there. I’ve ducked out of group shots and candids, held my hand in front of my face at public events, asked close friends and family to remember to PLEASE take down that group shot that includes me on Facebook. I’ve told my book publishers they can’t include a photo of me, and I’ve worn disguises to book signings and the rare personal appearance (although, since the disguises always seemed a little silly, I’ve just quit doing them). The few photos of me that do exist — like my driver’s license and a fuzzy shot snapped by an enterprising but misguided blogger — don’t look much like me, and I find them highly amusing.
I don’t have a company credit card, even though that would make the purchase/reimbursement process easier for all involved. That’s because it would have my name and — even worse — the R-J on it. I always pay in cash and am reimbursed by the company. Reservations are made in an assumed name.
I remember, about a decade ago, an anonymous emailer telling me that I’d never be famous because I’m not controversial enough.
“Famous?” I replied. “I’d rather have integrity.” I don’t take free meals, don’t go to restaurant openings, don’t pal around with owners and chefs. That hurts sometimes, because I’m not as likely to hear the gossip, and I know I’ve passed up opportunities to be friends with some really great people.
At any rate, you’re going to be seeing more of me, or at least of my restaurant reviews. I’ve been asked to write two reviews a week for the View newspapers, which are part of the R-J, inserted in the paper for R-J subscribers and distributed free to nonsubscribers. And as many of you have noticed, my reviews, like most of the locally produced entertainment coverage in the R-J, now appear on our sister website, bestoflasvegas.com.
Although I don’t cover government corruption or political intrigue or the vagaries of Obamacare, I take my job very seriously. I want to give readers the most accurate report possible, and I can’t do that if I’m not having the same experience you’re likely to have.
Contact reporter Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com. Find more of her stories at bestoflasvegas.com and follow @HKRinella on Twitter.
