Joey’s Seafood & Grill

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You say you don’t believe in evolution? Well, I’m not going to get into fish coming ashore, but here’s an evolution for you: A fried-fish place that was barely removed from a fast-food joint has morphed into a regular restaurant. And lounge.

That would be Joey’s Seafood & Grill, which used to be Joey’s Only. And its newer, more extensive menu lists quite a number of dishes that we sure don’t recall from Joey’s Only.

Like Shrimp with Cilantro Cream ($11.99). The middling-sized shrimp had been cooked just until they were done (as opposed to being cooked until they were much more than done, which is more common than you might think) and served in a light cream sauce that carried the very clear flavors of both garlic and cilantro, which played off each other — and the shrimp — quite effectively. A garden salad on the side (this dinner includes soup or salad and a choice of side dish) was better than average as well, nicely varied and crunchy.

Like smoked salmon salad minisandwiches ($5.99), sliders filled with salmon blended with capers and scallions. These were great — the salmon imbued with lots of flavor, and with enough capers in the mixture that their characteristic vinegary, kind of quirky flavor kept the fish from hogging the spotlight. It would be easy to allow the scallions to dominate the mixture, so it was a pleasant surprise that the capers got more attention instead.

Like Key lime pie ($3.49), which was a well-prepared rendition. It was topped with a little too much whipped cream, but it was easy to scrape that off, and the filling had the traditional tartness and light creaminess.

And a side dish of cole slaw, a relatively plainly flavored (which can be a good thing, as it was here) mix with lots of crunch.

So we were pretty happy with all of these, which made it all the more disappointing that the fried dishes didn’t quite measure up — especially since fried food was a staple of Joey’s Only. Joey’s Famous Fish ‘n’ Chips ($8.99 for two pieces, which we had, or $9.99 for three) were pollock, which was fine (haddock is available for an extra charge), with an oh-so-crisp coating, which also was fine, but it was too greasy, which wasn’t. I had sprinkled some malt vinegar on the first piece of fish and, after biting and finding it somewhat soggy, I tried the other without. And, well, it still was soggy. A greasy condition also afflicted the wide-cut fries on the side. Usually that means that the oil isn’t fresh enough or that it isn’t hot enough. I suspect that, on a relatively slow evening, it was the latter case.

And it afflicted, as well, a side order of hush puppies ($1.99), a rarity in these parts, which were well seasoned but cursed with soggy interiors.

Well, darn. I do feel that the greasy condition was an aberration, but it’s an aberration that shouldn’t happen. If there’s one thing that the former Joey’s Only should be able to do on a reliable basis, it’s fry fish.

Las Vegas Review-Journal reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at 383-0474 or e-mail her at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com.