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HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi’s Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

GRITZ

1911 Stella Lake Drive; 255-4748

This tiny spot is very much in the no-frills category but that just seems to fit with its simple theme, which is grits, grits and more grits. We liked the signature grits bowl with egg and cheese and an oh-so-fluffy biscuit, the Alabama among the "state plates," which features thick-sliced bacon along with eggs and biscuits and grits, and a spirited and satisfying chicken gumbo soup of the day, although the peach cobbler was only OK. (2/02/09)

Grade: B $

PRIMARILY PRIME RIB

South Point, 9777 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 797-8075

The food at Primarily Prime Rib is pretty decent but the water is awful. Just awful. That said, our shrimp cocktail had five large, succulent shrimp, off-the-boat fresh and just firm enough; onion rings were crisp and sweet; a South Point cut of prime rib was decently flavored and reasonably priced and although we thought a blackened Cajun-style prime rib a little too tame, that’s much better than being a little too wild. (7/18/08)

Overall: B $$

RAO’S

Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South; (877) 346-4642

We had to reserve well in advance to dine at Rao’s; in keeping with the New York original, this is a tough table. Was it worth it? For the most part, yes. Clams oreganata had been overbrowned, but we liked the Insalata Caprese, fettucine alla Bolognese, Uncle Vincent’s Famous Lemon Chicken and ricotta cheesecake. (6/1/07)

Overall: B $$$

VARADERO CUBAN RESTAURANT

5081 N. Rainbow Blvd.; 463-3609

Ropa vieja with a impressive, multilayered depth of flavor set the tone for our dinner at Varadero Cuban Restaurant, a strip-center standout near the Sante Fe Station. We also thoroughly enjoyed the picadillo-stuffed tostones rellenos, custardy tres leches cake and, to an only slightly lesser extent, a classic arroz con pollo. (1/8/10)

Overall: A- $$

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