The best fish you’ve never heard of is served on the Strip
At Estiatorio Milos in The Venetian, the Las Vegas outpost of the famed Greek restaurant group, there is a fish called fagri. Many folks, even experienced diners, have never heard of fagri, though it is plentiful in Greek waters, where it is caught by local fisherman, purchased at market for the restaurant, packed, then flown to Vegas.
About 36 hours after swimming in the Mediterranean, the fagri is served at Estiatorio Milos, chosen by customers from the restaurant fish market for grilling, or plated as sashimi anointed with lemon juice, olive oil and a flick of sea salt. In Greece, the oil is produced — and the salt harvested — especially for the restaurant.
Fagri (fah-GREE) possesses a firm texture and a briny sweetness that is full-flavored but not fishy. Fagri is rarely seen on U.S. menus outside of Greek spots, and it’s very likely Estiatorio Milos is the only restaurant on the Strip serving the fish — and, even then, not all the time.
“There are weeks you might not even see one fagri on the market,” said Jesse Maldonado, executive chef of Estiatorio Milos. “Maybe they didn’t cut any, or maybe it wasn’t up to the standards we require.” Availability might also depend, the chef said, “on the storms, the moon, the weather. Or even the logistics of bringing the fish.”
Fagri is sometimes called red porgy or common sea bream (like many fish, no uniformly accepted name exists in English). By whatever name, fagri abundantly repays trying the fish at Estiatorio Milos. Ask the sommelier to pair it with something racy and white and Greek.
The fagri sashimi is $36. Fagri for grilling is purchased by the pound at market price. For more information, visit venetianlasvegas.com/restaurants.html.
Contact Johnathan L. Wright at jwright@reviewjournal.com. Follow @ItsJLW on Twitter.