Las Vegas spot is surprising pick for Yelp’s best doughnut shop in Nevada

Classic glazed at Randy’s Donuts. Edible whimsy from Donutique in The Venetian. And, far too often, silly or pretentious renditions variously encumbered with creams, drizzles, crazy-color icing, towers of piped ganache, billows of whipped cream, marshmallows, cereal, lollipops and other excess.

So, given all the options (even the blech-y ones), it was surprising to learn that the best doughnut place in Nevada is — out in Henderson? Yo Mochi Cafe on South Eastern Avenue recently received the nod from Yelp on its list of the top doughnut shops in every state.

Clearly, people were ready for this mochi.

Less is more

The shop at 10271 S. Eastern Ave., Suite 116, feels youthful, with popping colors and graphics, a Tupakichu mural just off the entrance and cartoon portraits on the walls (including Eminem and Mr. Shakur). The vibe suggests, initially, that doughnut crazy might be on the way.

But Yo Mochi knows less is more. The doughnuts are beautifully spare. They have scalloped edges and simple glazes and toppings. Mochi (pounded glutinous rice) gives the doughnuts their distinctive chew. There are also versions stuffed with custard, say, or chocolate. Mochi malasadas and mochi waffles on sticks round out the menu.

Doughnuts are packed to go in a paper boom box.

Yelp “best” picks are sometimes puzzling or downright offensive (as in Eggslut having the best cheeseburger in Nevada). And it would have been unsurprising (though regrettable) if some spot serving too-sweet rococo monstrosities had been named best doughnut shop in Nevada.

But the choice of Yo Mochi, with its stripped-down style, suggests that Las Vegas might finally be coming to its senses when it comes to what makes a good doughnut.

Contact Johnathan L. Wright at jwright@reviewjournal.com. Follow @JLWTaste on Instagram.