Chateau Grand Village

Grapes: Merlot (77 percent), cabernet franc (23 percent)

Region: Bordeaux Superieur, France

Vintage: 2003

Price: $9.99

In the glass: Chateau Grand Village is a deep garnet-red color with an opaque core going out into a dark-tinged red rim definition with medium viscosity.

On the nose: It displays a complexity that defies its classification with forward and mature black and red plum fruit, big time spice box, tobacco, leather and game, as well as underlying earthy minerals and hints of oak and graphite.

On the palate: This wine is classic bordeaux all the way with greatly delineated black fruit on a base of serious spice action, roasted coffee beans, star anise, bittersweet chocolate shavings and minerality going into the midpalate, which shows off serious structure with still forward tannins and good acidity to hold together the fruit. The finish is opulent and lingering. It is an overachiever of a wine, showing incredible promise for the money.

Odds and ends: I did a double take when I saw the owners of this unassuming little property, and at the same time, it explains the relatively high quality found in the bottle. The Guinaudaeau family owns Chateau Lafleur in Pomerol, arguably among the most expensive and sought after wines in the world, but why bother with this little property? It appears that it was owned by the family for generations and rather than purge it, they decided to make something for everyday drinking. Add to that the importer of this wine being Pasternak, which is owned by the Rothschild family, and you have a winning combination, especially for less than $10. Chateau Grand Village has reached a great maturation plateau right now and drinks perfect right out of the bottle. It should still be at least excellent through 2015. Try it with either pot roast or spare ribs, maybe on a bed of fettuccine Alfredo.

Gil Lempert-Schwarz’s wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.